Don't get sucked into the "speed game". Something in the "middle" performance wise will slay all the deer and pigs you want. Then again, you can do that with slow poke gear too or hot rod.
The Bowhunting gear
A lot of people have to have the latest and greatest, and bows change so much yr to yr that they lose their value pretty fast. Got a buddy with a thick wallet, likes the newest. My hunting partner buys his 2 yr old stuff, at great prices Lots of guys charge too much for their used gear and sucker friends, coworkers and or family into buying it Well tuned, they all work.
Just some are faster, more quiet, quicker.. Good stuff isn't cheap, but there are bargains out there. One new compound bow, my local shop sells out of every year They also sell a lot of the new Mission stuff that can fit people over a wider range. Just about any compound out there looks like a top fuel dragster compared to my rig.
I have full confidence in its ability to do the job.
- How to Start Hunting – Beginner’s Guide and Checklist?
- Tijuanaland (Italian Edition).
- Seduzione mediterranea (Italian Edition).
You will need a bow and at least six arrows with a field tip and broadhead for each. Inexpensive carbon arrows are fine for starters. You can learn to hunt instinctively without a sight just like the Native Americans did but that will take a LOT of time and practice. For a beginner, I recommend using a compound bow, pin sight, peep sight and release. This type of rig is much easier to learn on and will produce a high level of accuracy with minimum effort.
I also recommend a store bought target because these rigs launch arrows at such high speed that you may break arrows with a bale of straw or a makeshift target. If you are hunting in the north where trees have broad heavy limbs, you can sit on a limb or craft a simple bow stand and ladder to it with wood. If you live in areas where there are only pine trees or trees that don't have limbs for the first 25 feet from the ground, you will need a bow stand. Climbers are handy if you can't leave a stand in the woods and ladder stands are comfy if you can. Camo is almost a must for archery hunting because the deer are so close, it helps to break up your silhouette.
Finally, you will need a field knife capable of field dressing a deer. This doesn't have to be expensive but it needs to be sharp. Most beginners have their deer processed by a butcher but they aren't really difficult to cut and package yourself once you learn how. You are going to want to find a place in the woods where deer trails intersect and place your stand on the downwind side of that.
Check prevailing winds for your location. This is where a climber is a little better because you can move it for wind. Handy optional equipment includes a bottle of doe in estrus scent and a Primos Can call. You can do more with rattling horns, buck snorts, etc. Novices have a tendency to scare more deer than attract them using these devices.
Taking the Shot!
I like to put doe scent on the bottom of my shoes and on drag rags attached to my shoes as I go to my stand. Deer really are attracted to scents and they are relatively easy to use. You can also put up a scent wick in your kill zone. Most deer passing will come nearer to take a sniff. Controlling scent is mandatory when you are attempting to get within yards of a deer. The most effective technique is to shower with scentless soap and put your field clothes in a garbage bag with pine or cedar boughs and leave them outside the house where they won't be exposed to human scents like popcorn, bacon, fried eggs, etc.
I leave my outer clothes in a bag until I get to the hunting sight and dress there. Like anything else, you have options of whether you buy used or new equipment based on your budget. You certainly don't need the Cadillac of bows but generally the more expensive bows are easier to use, give you greater range and are quieter. Nice but not mandatory. You will generally find used equipment at lower prices and on ebay or at garage sales where you will find the previous owner selling ALL their goodies with the bow at the lowest price saving you a lot for your money.
I agree with CD2 that "deer don't care how much you spend. You don't need the fanciest equipment on the planet to hunt deer. I started with a recurve and lifted weights and practiced for two months and did fine. Moving to a compound reduced the effort to draw and therefore simplified practice. When I got the compound rigged out with great sights, it became as accurate as my.
Hope this helps you get started. It is one of the most exciting sports on the planet. Best of luck to you and let us know how you do. Originally posted by DakotaMan View Post. Older gear can be quite doable. FWIW my weighted carbons for my recurve have me aiming 4" low at 20yards with a high anchor. Same sight picture with a lower 2nd anchor has me nailing the bull at 30 yards. Pretty simple. Of course I'm shooting off a velcro chunk spaced for quill clearance, on a recurve cut past center.
My carbons are weighted for proper spine and paper tune shows 'em pretty darn sweet. So my field tips and broadheads hit the same. I shot "split finger" and lower anchors for years compound and recurve , and did well, but it took a lot more practice. Coming back from an injury I didn't have time last yr to get into the groove so changed some stuff. Worked perfectly. Do agree, that sights and release offer a fast learning curve, and the let off and other aspects of compounds can be very nice.
Originally posted by CD2 View Post. Whatever gear you choose, pick a small aiming point in practice, and hunting. You don't shoot "at" an animal. Your aim is for a specific spot on that critter. The spot does however change, depending on distance, angle, elevation. Quite a few people think 2D even when they own and practice with a 3D deer target- since the scoring rings are fixed. The little deer models were pretty good back in the day, showing folks what was what International Bowhunter Education Program. Put a 1" black dot on it.
And kill that dot. It is also used as part of the back tension release methods, making it a combination of the two releases, becoming more popular by the the day among hunters. Targets are available in various shapes and sizes.
12 Pro Tips on Bow Hunting for Beginners
Different sizes are up for grabs, usually filled with a type of synthetic fiber that easily stops your arrow. Foam layer block targets: This is a step up from bag targets. Lightweight, portable and economical. These foam layered target work by pinching the arrow between the layers, stopping it with resistance, not force. Bows with a high strength draw, buries the arrows fairly deep into the target before they get stopped.
Three-dimensional hunting targets are made out of foam and has replaceable parts for vital areas; ideal for when the foam gets worn out from repetitive shooting. Usually looking the part for a sport does not affect the actual sport itself, archery is a different case.
Gear is extremely important in the wild, especially the clothing. Dress to withstand the elements by not making unnatural noises while staying invisible. Backpacks: There are a lot of things to consider when choosing the right backpack for bowhunting. Keep in mind that you will be out in the wild away from you homely comforts for a while. Spend time on choosing the right one, it will pay off buying one on the more expensive side with better quality; possibly lasting you a lifetime. Boots: Footwear is important, your choice needs to meet up with the right hunting requirements; considering your most used terrain type.
Find waterproof boots that comfortable, as you will be spending a lot of time on your feet hiking through rugged territory. Stay dry and protected with the right weatherproof jackets and pants. Staying invisible: It is important to wear cammo material when you go hunting, as most shots are taken close to 50 feet of the target.
It is critically important that you choose the right setup for you, mainly when choosing a bow. Each and every hunter has custom needs when it comes to shooting; make sure that your bow is a good fit for you. Your hunting skill level and preferred archery method will determine the accessories you need. Most professional hunting shops with experienced staff will be able to help you find the perfect bow. There are a few things you want to take into consideration:. Draw weight: The amount of power needed to pull the bow into full tension, is known as the drawing weight.
You want something that you can pull in all conditions. Whether you are wearing a heavy rain jacket in the cold or shooting in the target field, do it comfortably. The drawing weight can range from 20 to 90 pounds; most males will be able to use a draw weight up to 60 pounds. Draw Length: The distance that the string is drawn to reach maximum tension, is measured as the draw length.
Draw length is the distance the string is drawn before it has reached maximum tension.
Backcountry Bowhunting Book - Cameron Hanes
Measure your wingspan and divide it by 2. For example, a male with a 6 foot wingspan will use a Practice preparation and Planning: How much practice does it take to become a experienced archer? The short answer, it takes dedication. Archers practice right through the year for the upcoming hunting season, preparation and practice is key. Getting to know the bow, identifying your dominant eye and comfortable draw weight comes with time.
For example- which release works best for you or what distance you are accurate shooting from.
Select gear that is suitable for your hunting environment, the hunting conditions will require you to work out a strategy. The hours you put in behind the bow, will pay off once you are in the wild; drawing on your first kill. There are various methods of moving through woods, forests pastures, and trails when stalking prey. The hunter needs to be patient, while employing these methods upwind. This prevents the kill from smelling or hearing you. These methods allow hunters to find more active areas of game; while giving the opportunity to enjoy the scenic beauty of the outdoors.
This takes a high amount of skill and practice. Still hunting: Usually when implementing this method of stalking, the hunter moves slowly until he spots an animal. The hunter takes a few steps then stops to scan for animals. This method demands attention to detail when it comes to wind direction, sunlight and weather. Stalking: This is when a hunter has already seen the animal and is trying to get the animal into range.
Stalking should be performed diagonally; as this is less threatening to the animal and is less likely to scare them off. Glassing: This is when you are sitting at a high vantage spot, spotting for animals. Once the animal has been spotted, the stalking method is applied. This is a camouflaged set-up in the wild. They made for archers to wait in until animals pass by, in a desired shooting position. Makeshift structures or sophisticated cammo-cloth blinds are usually located close to a food or water source. Ground Blinds should always be located downwind from where you intend to take your shot.
Also make sure to be away from the sun with a safe background. Elevated stands is one of the most popular ways to bow-hunt, especially the elevated tree stand. Set up high against a tree, the elevated tree stand offers a vantage point for the hunter. The cons include; the risk of falling, little protection from the weather and limited movement space.
Also transporting the stand can be difficult.